AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |
Back to Blog
Mac game emulator for windows .sit10/23/2022 ![]() We are not inserting the toggle into the case at this time. If need be, insert a screw on the opposite side and carefully tighten to pull the nut into the depression. Flip the parts over and press each nut against a hard surface, being careful to keep the flat sides of the nut parallel to the surface. MiniMacDiskFront_V2.stl has 1 nut inserted as does the MiniMacToggle_V2.stl. MiniMacBack_V2.stl has 1 nut inserted into the upper lip. It will overlap the corner of the Pi, locking into place once tightened. When the Pi Zero is inserted, the toggle will be rotated 90 degrees counterclockwise to the 3 o'clock position. It should be tight enough to rotate only 90 degrees, from 3 o'clock to 6 o'clock. ![]() One of the photos shows it in place and the ball end of the allen wrench in the screw. Once it is in place, carefully insert the ball end of the allen wrench into the screw and tighten the screw. Jiggle the toggle into the base, positioning the screw into the hole on the inside bottom of the back. Insert fully 1 - 3M x 12mm cap screw into the flat side of the toggle. This will be a bit difficult for thick fingers. Now you need to insert the Raspberry Pi's retainer toggle into base. Flip the case over and press each nut against a hard surface, being careful to keep the flat sides of the nut parallel to the surface. Carefully align the nuts and press into the depressions. MiniMacBack.stl has 2 nut pockets on the inner lip and 1 on the bottom. Try pressure fit first, and if that fails, give the soldering iron a try. They have carefully pressed in the nuts with a soldering iron. Note: Some people have had issues with a little over extruding on their printer and the nuts are hard to insert. Once printed and sanded, it is time to insert the nuts into the back of the Mac. If you wish to paint your pieces, there is a Guide To Smoothing PLA Prints on Instructables. I didn't use a finer sandpaper because early Macs were textured plastic. You want a smooth edge so the front meets the back with little or no ridge artifacts. Pay special attention to the front edge of the MiniMacBack prints. Once the all supports have been removed, the front and back were sanded with 150 grit sandpaper, being careful to remove the ridges and make the surface uniform. MiniMacFrontPlain_V2.stl was included if you wish to print it on it's side. Once printed, this support is cut off and the surface filed down flush. Like the V1 build, MiniMacFront_V2.stl has additional support along the backside of the model. MiniMacDiskFront_V2.stl, MiniMacDiskBack_V2.stl and the MiniMacToggle_V2.stl were printed with NO supports. MiniMacFont_V2.stl was printed upright with supports Everywhere and a Brim. MiniMacBack_V2.stl was printed on it's back with supports from the Build Plate Only. Again, all are printed with a layer height of 0.20 in PLA and I printed them on the smooth plate of my Prusa. With the exception of printing different files, the instructions are pretty much the same as the other version. MiniMacFrontPlain.stl was included if you wish to print it on it's side. The MiniMacFront.stl has additional support along the backside of the model. MiniMacDisk.stl and the MiniMacToggle.stl were printed with NO supports. MiniMacFont.stl was printed upright with supports Everywhere and Brim. I've modified this file for a to handle a wider range of ribbon cables. MiniMacBack.stl was printed on it's back with supports from the Build Plate Only. I arranged the back and front so the support fins are oriented to make easy removal. I made a point to print it on the smooth plate. All are printed with a layer height of 0.20 in PLA. ![]() #Mac game emulator for windows .sit fullHere's a full set of both Metric and US wrenches. ![]()
0 Comments
Read More
Leave a Reply. |